Postcards from Pakistan

As my business idea developed, I knew I wanted to go beyond India. India dominates global awareness of the South Asian region, due to its size, its recent economic rise, and for Westerners,  its alluring combination of accessibility and the exotic.  Most of the other countries in the region are known for civil wars, extreme poverty, and natural disasters. Even the positive highlights (mountaineering in Nepal, microfinance in Bangladesh) are caricatures.  I believe this does a disservice to the region as a whole, by reducing real problems to stereotypes and reinforcing problematic power dynamics – not to mention the personal consequences for families and communities living in ignored or divided societies.

I especially wanted to include Pakistan in my plan as, apart from the Kashmir conflict with India, it has largely been ignored by the rest of the world in my lifetime. That is, until the advent of the global war on terror cast it in an impossible leading role on the global stage. These days, Pakistan is generally known for terrorism and political instability but little else. Yet my sister lived there with her partner for about 10 months in 2007-2008, and she is passionate about the country and her experience there.  So I wanted to see how we might be able to present a different perspective on Pakistan’s culture, at least in a small way.

We had just 11 days in Pakistan, mostly in Lahore. Too short a visit, but a good start.  It is a beautiful country, easier to get to know than some other places precisely because it is overlooked by tourists. I look forward to returning. For now, here are some snapshots of the people and places we saw, and some of the good work that we hope to support.

Our home in Lahore

The hospitality of Pakistanis is deservedly renowned. People who know you only through third and fourth degree connections are happy to offer any assistance they can. In Lahore we stayed with Shahid Uncle, our father’s colleague’s wife’s former-brother-in-law, for longer than is reasonable and had a lovely time.

Women practice tailoring at the Family Welfare Cooperative of Lahore

The Family Welfare Cooperative of Lahore works with women and families in six katchi abadis (slums) as well as the surrounding villages of Pakistan’s cultural capital. Women have the opportunity to learn several trades, such as hairdressing, office administration, community organizing, and textile crafts. As part of the craft program, women learn to sew, embroider, and crochet, making sweaters, children’s clothing, tablecloths, and other linens. They are able to work at the training center or out of their homes. Most of these products are sold in local markets. My favorite purchases were children’s clothing – charming kurtis and dresses.

Children at a school run by the FWC in Lahore

In addition, the FWC runs schools and a hospital providing low cost services to the poor in Lahore. In the villages surrounding Lahore, the FWC gives microcredit loans to women for raising cattle and water buffalo and operates a mobile health clinic.

The Ultimate Breakfast

Amber’s friend Imran took me out for breakfast one day in Lahore’s Walled City. The delicious halwa puri is all you could ask for in a top notch breakfast: something savory, something sweet, something fried, all fresh and accompanied by piping hot chai.

Imran gets a blessing for his broken arm at breakfast

Imran is an artist with an uncommon philosophy.  While many people agitate for change (and recognition as change leaders), Imran asks:  What really needs to change? And what can you honestly do about that?  He is not an apologist for indifference. Rather, he sees the beauty and vibrancy of many situations (like Pakistan’s socioeconomic milieu) where others see only a need for change.  After all, in such an oppressive society as Pakistan’s you can openly hold hands with a friend of the same sex without the assumption of homosexuality, you can be the recipient of a blessing from someone who recognizes your need, and you can be sure that relationships are valued above all else.  Imran believes it is most important to be present in every moment, giving of yourself fully and honestly to those around you -  that is how the world evolves.

Students at the Naqsh School of Arts in Lahore's Walled City

Imran also took me to visit the Naqsh School of Arts,  started in 2003 by a foundation to provide affordable education in the arts. The school offers  a three-year certificate course in drawing, painting, ceramics, sculpture, illustrations, wood carving, fresco and design at a cost of less than $5 per month for students.  The students were studying drawing that day, and I would have loved to purchase some of their works. But the school keeps all the students’ works for its own use as part of the fee – a big problem for budding artists who need to learn how to market their works. However, Imran is involved in another project called Dugdugi, which has the goal of making art created by low and middle income artists affordable for the average Pakistani. I hope to purchase some of these works for sale in my shop later on.

Mahmood Ali shows off the wares in Hunza Gallery

By chance Amber and I found Hunza Gallery and Kaarvan Crafts in Islamabad. Both shops benefit artisans in northern Pakistan. Mahmood is from Hunza and works in the tourism industry. His company sponsors Hunza Gallery, which is dedicated to supporting artisans working in Hunza, surrounded by the beautiful Karakoram mountains in Pakistan’s Northern Areas. Sharing borders with China, India, and Afghanistan,  this area has a unique culture. Apricots are an important food source and make their way into all kinds of dishes from soup to dessert, as well as soaps, oils, and wood products made from various parts of the apricot tree. The cold weather in the region has led to specialization in wool and leather products like hats and jackets (like the one Mahmood is wearing), as well as rugs and other accessories.

Kaarvan promotes the economic empowerment of women by developing and marketing their high quality, handmade products. Traditional skills such as embroidery and beadwork are preserved while women gain self-sufficiency through home based work.  Kaarvan started with a group of women entrepreneurs near Lahore, producing handmade cards which won a Body Shop competition and earned the program some seed capital.
As of 2008, Kaarvan has served over 2,500 women across Pakistan and sells their products through four fair trade shops in Pakistan. My favorite purchases here were handbags – lots of fun and creative designs.

At the Sungi Shop

Also in Islamabad, I met with Asma Ravji of the Sungi Development Foundation.  Amber and I visited their shop as well; my favorite products were crocheted shawls and handmade embroidered cards.

Sungi works in the Northwest Frontier Province of Pakistan to promote the empowerment of women within a broader socioeconomic context. Starting with a development plan for an entire village, Sungi earns the trust necessary for a true partnership by working with the community on a basic needs infrastructure project. The next step is an economic development program in which women are encouraged to develop their existing craft skills through home based work. Beginning with training and materials provided by Sungi, the women progress to making crafts independently and selling them not just to Sungi but to other local buyers, with marketing and business development support from Sungi. The women develop the entrepreneurial skills, financial means, and personal independence they need to strengthen their position in their homes and communities. This has led to increased education of girls (as mothers have the means to pay for it themselves), increased political participation by women (including to elected seats), and more pleasure in life (disposable income brings freedom and fun).

Samad in his jewelry shop

Samad has a small shop at the Lok Virsa Museum of Culture just outside Islamabad. Though he now lives with his family in Rawalpindi, he is from a village in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. The region is well known for its precious and semiprecious stones, and Samad uses sunstone, lapis lazuli, amazonite, serpentine, amethyst, and many others in his jewelry. The region also used to be part of the Silk Road, connecting China with Central Asia and the Subcontinent. It still sees some of the traditional trade patterns, and Samad uses Chinese freshwater pearls in his jewelry.

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