Silk weavers of Varanasi

I was a little bit nervous about going to Banaras (Varanasi) because I had no idea what we would find.  I knew that Banarasi saris are famous in South Asia and beyond. I’d read a blurb in the Economist sometime before about how the silk weavers of Banaras have been devastated by changes in the global silk trade. But I didn’t really know how my idea could connect with this situation. Luckily, as happened so often on this trip, some great people helped us dive right in.

Amber’s friend Megan, a PhD student in anthropology, introduced us to Chris, an anthropologist who is  doing an ethnographic study of the effect of globalization on the lives of Muslim traditional artisans in Varanasi. This is part of his larger research effort on how the Urdu language mushaira (poetry recital) impacts globalization and transnational processes on two South Asian Muslim communities: working class silk weavers in Varanasi,  and South Asian expatriates in Saudi Arabia and Dubai. Needless to say, with his 10+ years of experience in the artisan communities of Varanasi, Chris offered us more information than we dreamed we’d learn in just a few days. Here’s a little bit of what we learned.

Banarasi silk has been famous across South Asia and the Middle East for hundreds of years.  It is woven in six-yard saris with intricate designs, sometimes including real gold and silver thread (zari), for the most important social occasions.  The sari forms may also be cut to create smaller items like scarves and pillow covers. Traditionally a Muslim trade, Mughal influences are often seen in Banarasi designs.

Today, however, it is estimated that Varanasi has lost 80% of its silk weavers, many of whom have left the city. The reason? A wave of cheap, machine-printed silk from China and synthetics made in Gujarat has rendered Banarasi silk uncompetitive in the global marketplace. With these lower-quality substitutes in easy reach, weavers with 15-20 years of experience can expect to make just $3 to $4 per day. As Chris told us, a cycle rickshaw driver can easily earn that wage.

We wondered if there were any cooperatives or unions working in favor of the weavers. But Chris told us that the Banarasi silk weavers’ union is known to be a political entity that serves its members poorly. And most middlemen pit weavers against each other and use the competitive situation to their advantage.  So how could we get involved?

Chris suggested that we meet a family of middlemen he’s known for several years to be ethical in their dealings with weavers.  So one evening, we visited the home of Daud, an elderly man whose sons Shahid (also a chemist) and Saud now run the family business.  Saud, who is married and has two children, proceeded to give us an elementary introduction to silk weaving: the terminology, the techniques, the process from design to finished product, how to identify real silk and real gold in fabric.  His family works with five weavers who use hand looms on which it takes two to four weeks to make a sari.  Below are some pictures of what we saw.

Saud teaches us about silk.

A weaver at work on a Jacquard loom.

Punchcards on a Jacquard loom: a precursor to the development of computing hardware. Each set of cards controls the weaving of particular patterns. It takes up to 10 days to make a set of cards, and due to the peculiarity of looms, cards must be made to order for an individual loom.

A penciled design for a brocade. This will be transferred to a large sheet of paper that shows the weft colors in magnified detail, which is then used by the weavers to create the design. We weren’t allowed to photograph those templates as they are considered proprietary.

Although saris with  zari work are still made, like this Jora with faux metallic thread made for women marrying into a family of weavers,  today only a score of weavers know the art of weaving with real gold and silver.

We’re very excited about the prospect of working closely with weavers in Banaras to help them preserve the legacy and develop the future of their art.  Since we weren’t able to purchase anything from them on short notice, we bought some lovely finished products from another shop in town that employs a small number of silk weavers directly. You might say I got carried away with pillow covers, but I love them because they are simple yet luxurious accessories with a great story. I hope you’ll agree if you get to see them.

Advertisement